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| Location: About 13 km from Ernakulam town. |
To explore the historic town of Fort Kochi, there is no better choice than
setting out on foot. Relax, breathe deep and come out in cotton dresses, soft
shoes and yes - a straw hat. At each and every nook of this island steeped in
history, there is something amusing awaiting you. It is a world of its own,
retaining the specimens of a bygone era and still proud of those days. If you
can smell the past, nothing can stop you from walking through these streets.
Walking straight through the K. J. Herschel Road and turning left,
you can have a glimpse of Fort Immanuel. This bastion once belonged to the
Portuguese and is a symbol of the strategic alliance which existed between the
Maharaja of Cochin and the Monarch of Portugal, after whom the fort is named.
This fort was built in 1503 and reinforced in 1538. Walking a bit further, you
come across the Dutch cemetery. Consecrated in 1724 and managed by the Church
of South India, the tomb stones here silently remind visitors of those
Europeans who left their homeland to expand their colonial empires.
The next spot to watch is the ancient Thakur House, which stands erect as a
concrete specimen of the colonial era. The building is simply graceful.
Formerly known as Kunal or Hill Bungalow, it was home to the managers of the
National Bank of India during the British rule. Now, it belongs to the Thakur
and Company, renowned tea trading firm.
Walk on and there is another colonial structure awaiting you - David Hall. It
was built around 1695 by the Dutch East India Company. The hall is associated
with Hendrik Adriaan van Reed tot Drakeston, renowned Dutch commander, who is
more admired for his monumental book on the flora of Kerala namely Hortus
Malabaricus. However, David Hall is named after David Koder, a later occupant
of the hall.
Walking past the Parade Ground, the four acres of ground where the Portuguese,
the Dutch and the British had once conducted military parades, you reach the
St. Francis Church, the oldest European church in India. It has passed through
many phases ever since the Portuguese built it in 1503. Now the church is under
the Church of South India. By the way, it was in this church that Vasco-da Gama
had been buried and his tombstone can still be seen.
The Church Road is a nice place to walk, with the cool breeze from the Arabian
Sea caressing your body. Walk down a bit closer to the sea and there is the
Cochin Club, home to an impressive library and collection of sporting trophies.
Set in a beautifully landscaped park, the club still retains its British
ambience.
Walking back to the Church Road, on the left side, you would stumble across
another majestic mansion, the Bastion Bungalow. This wonderful structure of
Indo-European style had been built in 1667 and is named after its location on
the site of the Stromberg Bastion of the old Dutch fort. Now it is the official
residence of the Sub Collector.
The Vasco-da Gama square is nearby. A narrow promenade, this is an ideal place
to relax a little. Stalls full of delicious seafood and tender coconuts are
simply tempting. Savour a bit and feed your eyes on the Chinese fishing nets,
being raised and lowered. These nets had been erected here between AD 1350 and
1450 by the traders from the court of Kublai Khan.
Refreshed, you can now proceed to the Pierce Leslie Bungalow, a charming
mansion, which once had been the office of Pierce Leslie and Co., coffee
merchants of yesteryears. This building reflects Portuguese, Dutch and local
influences. Its waterfront verandahs are an added attraction. Turning right,
you come to the Old Harbour House, built in 1808 and owned by Carriet Moran and
Co, renowned tea brokers. Nearby is the Koder House, the magnificent building
constructed by Samuel S. Koder of the Cochin Electric Company in 1808. This
structure shows the transition from colonial to Indo-European architecture.
Turn further right and you reach the Princess Street. Mind having some fresh
flowers from the shops here. One of the earliest streets of the area, this road
has European style residences on both its sides. Located here is the Loafer's
Corner, the traditional hangout for the jovial and fun loving people of Kochi.
Walking northwards from the Loafer's corner, you come across Santa Cruz
Basilica, the historic church built by the Portuguese and elevated to a
cathedral by Pope Paul IV in 1558. In 1984, Pope John Paul II declared it as a
Basilica. After having a quick look at the Burgher street and the Delta Study,
a heritage bungalow built in the year 1808 and now functioning as a high
school, you walk down, once again to the Princess Street and then to the Rose
Street. There you would find Vasco house, believed to be the residence of
Vasco-da Gama. This traditional and typical European house is one of the oldest
of Portuguese residences in Kochi.
Turning left, you walk over to the Ridsdale Road to find the VOC gate, the
large wooden gate facing the Parade ground. The gate, built in 1740, gets its
name from the monogram (VOC) of the Dutch East India Company on it. Close by is
the United Club, once one of the four elite clubs of the British in Kochi. Now,
it serves as a classroom for the nearby St. Francis Primary School.
Walking straight, you reach the end of the road and there is the Bishop's
house, built in the year of 1506. It had once been the residence of the
Portuguese Governor and is set on a small hillock near the Parade Ground. The
facade of the house has large Gothic arches and the building was acquired by
Dom Jos Gomes Ferreira, the 27th Bishop of the Diocese of Cochin whose
jurisdiction extended over Burma, Malaya and Ceylon apart from India.
Yes, now it is time to wind up the walk. With the feel of the bygone days still
lingering in your minds, mesmerizing sights staying back in your eyes and your
taste buds yearning again for the delicacies and it is not at all a sin, if you
feel like another walk!
